Things to Do in Lebanon in September

You will see the deep blue Mediterranean meet the rugged green slopes of Mount Lebanon. The city of Jounieh sprawls like a model village below. The only sound is the wind in the canopy lines. You glide on thermal currents rising from the sun-warmed land.

It approaches the monumental limestone arches of Raouche rising from the sea. You hear waves lap against the hull and seagulls cry from the cliffs. Feel the cool spray as the captain navigates the caverns.

It passes Ottoman-era buildings with intricate wooden balconies. It enters neighborhoods where the aroma of strong coffee mixes with the sound of backgammon pieces clacking on outdoor tables. A knowledgeable guide connects the visible layers of Beirut, from Phoenician foundations to bullet-pocked facades. This makes the city's complex history tangible.

It moves from the echoing, cathedral-like chambers of Jeita Grotto, where you feel a cool drip from towering stalactites, to the serene gaze of the Virgin Mary statue at Harissa. You reach Harissa by a steep cable car ride. It culminates in the stone-walled souk of Byblos. There, the smell of grilled fish and the sight of Crusader castle walls jutting into the blue sky create a vivid historical collage.

It goes from the subterranean river and glittering limestone formations of Jeita Grotto to the panoramic view from the Harissa sanctuary. It finishes with a walk through the Phoenician, Roman, and medieval ruins of Byblos. The contrast is striking. You move from the silent, damp coolness of the caves to the bright, sunny archaeological site.

You will roll grape leaves and pound garlic and parsley for tabbouleh with a sharp, metallic *mezal* knife. The air fills with the scent of toasting pine nuts and simmering tomato sauce. It culminates in a shared meal where you taste the tangy, creamy results of your labor.