Where to Stay in Lebanon

Lebanon crams an astonishing range of beds into a country smaller than Connecticut. Beirut leads the way: glass towers packed with international chains, Ottoman mansions reborn as boutique hotels in Gemmayzeh, rooftop hostels where the call to prayer drifts over techno basslines. South of the capital, Jounieh lines up beach resorts, Byblos hides family guesthouses serving zaatar manoushe and fresh labneh at dawn, and mountain lodges fill stone rooms with cedar-scented air. Head north and Tripoli turns Ottoman khans into atmospheric inns. The Bekaa Valley opens into winery stays where you sleep between vineyard rows and wake to barrel tastings. In the Shouf Mountains, 19th-century palaces greet guests with carved cedar ceilings and sweeping ridge views. The Cedars region flips into ski chalets come December, stone fireplaces roaring against mountain hush. Prices sit well below European levels. A spotless double in Beirut lands mid-range; coastal resorts spike during July-August. Budget travelers score clean hostels and village homestays for extremely affordable rates. Luxury clusters in Beirut, the mountains, and select coastal resorts. Yet even the top-end properties charge what would pass for mid-range in Dubai or Paris.